5.1 Le Bistrot du 20eme, 203, ave Gambetta in the 20th (Metro: St Fargeau), 01.40.31.86.07, open 7/7 is a place that was calling to me and not just because it was Saturday when the fabulously priced 3-course "menu" (14 E) was not served but a la carte was estimated to be 25-35 E.
(Front-story. I ate there, subtitled my review "A real 20th century bistro: 1950's dishes with modern sensibilities" and when I got home read Emmanuel Rubin's review subtitled "Where are the rutabagas" in which he mentions food from "after the [WWII] war.....ration cards.....and a sack of potatoes [by the door].") well, at least two of us got the same ambiance/impression.)
Let me explain. As one enters, you seem swept back to the 1950's, antique bicycles, chotskies, dangling Kub Or boxes and boxes or bags of seasonal products. So you get the message - post-war food with seasonal products.
He/they had three dishes marked in green, meaning among other things, the chef's specialities that day. I chose all three.
I started with the (tiede) but previously cooked foie gras with honey that seemed to have a hint of fig, very nice indeed.
Then I moved on to the jeu de boeuf which my charming waitress, who desperately wanted to speak English, although born in Algeria, advised was so tender it could be eaten with a spoon. She lieth not. It was tender and served atop well-cooked sliced carrots. However, I didn't think the vinegarette sauce worked as well as the classic red-wine reduction.
Then I was to have the roasted brioche with careme caramel sale but didn't have room.
My bill with toasted bread (it was May First after all), 50 cl of the wine of the moment and a coffee was 42 E.
Go? If it's old bistro cooking with modern sensibilities you're looking for and you're staying at the hotel the waitress said was just up the hill or live nearby, for sure. While the other bar-cafes were jammed with muguet bearing customers, they looked fungible, serving fugible industrial food.
6.0 Le Chalbens, 33, rue de la Chine in the 20th (Metro: Pelleport)
"John," my female dining partner said yesterday,"how do you find and choose these places?" "Ah," I said, playing the inscrutibility card, "sometimes, people email me, sometimes I walk by a new place and get their card, sometimes the drumbeats call me, and then sometimes a blogger will have an early warning, but mostly I just read about them in the press."
So Le Chalbens, where did that come from? Well, I read about Vin Chai Moi moving and a new place moving in and I keep a list, a rolling list, things roll on, roll off and sometimes it takes me sometime to warm up to the idea. Today seemed one of those days.
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